My fish bone tweezers, and Masamoto Sohonten square tweezers in the foreground and an Avanti generic. My first is the Avanti generic (below) which I modified by bending in the front two-fifths of the prongs and engraved a grippy ‘knurling’. Then I upgraded to a Masamoto which is a little pricy; but ‘spring tension?’ is lighter but rest of the tweezers are much stiffer than the Avanti, making it a very efficient and comfortable tool to use.
Original post: 06DEC08
Nicely built; mostly plastic and some metal but strong. Except mine refused to light after a year of use recently, but there is a five year warranty on them I have to act on.
The gas flow adjuster knob can be shifted out and tweaked well way or down to find a nice range you’d like it to perform. From a 5mm flame to mini flamethrower (but lacking the efficient butane-air mixture for a proper jet flame).
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29APR09- My MPL did have a hiccup in its life, inside the ‘noozle’ parts shifted around and the gas refused to ignite. With the help of a tweezer, I seemly bent the internal noozle into the right spot to catch the spark.
Original post: 06DEC08 Updated: 29APR09
Useful for peeling onions, opening boxes and hollowing choux puffs… Made a little saya out of card and tape so I can carry them around in my pockets if needed.
Original post: 06DEC08, updated: 29APR09
Wider blade than Victorinox Fibrox parer, might not work for some people but I’ve no problem with it. The steel is a surprisingly good especially for the price, takes a nicer edge than any of the cheap parers I’ve used; it comes with some kind of hard coating on the blade. Also comes a nice bigger handle than the Victorinox which is all good.
Original post:06DEC08
Nice larger handle than the Victorinox Fibrox bird’s beak but it’s costs double.
Original post: 06DEC08
Nice hard powdered steel cutting core clad with softer (‘easy to scratch’ ) stainless steel. It has signature Tojiro rather square shoulders on the handle which I don't mind and actually love the boxy handle shape.
The wavy boundary between the PS core and the stainless cladding. Cool...
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Here it is, the handle rescaled: Concinna Burl scales, reshaped bolster, 2x SS corby screws and epoxy, mineral oil-wax finish.
My first time working with burl wood.
KF post: http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/835120/
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~APR09~
xX Add in new tung oiled photos. Xx
Original post: 29JUN07, Updated: 25APR09
Unlike the shitty deba from the same Fujiwara FKM series, this is actually a really nice knife. Intended for poultry butchery with its thicker blade and large handle, it can easily handle most birds and with the pointy tip it makes getting at the wishbone easier. I’ve used mine mainly for fish filleting, but have since upgraded to a deba.
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This is my first time attempt at a multiple wood scale handle.
Caring this knife off to a KF member, but not before making a pinless saya for this knife.
KF post related to this rescaling:
http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/835120/
Original post:18OCT08, Updated: 25OCT08
Bought this knife with the intention of converting into a narrow blade paring knife, but when I got it I decided to keep it as a petty. SK-4 HCS steel, easy as to sharpen to a very keen edge. It’s currently on heavily right biased sub-10ยบ angles and is crazy sharp for a double bevel knife.
I have rescaled it with Lace Sheoak scales, a single SS corby screw and epoxy, ground the tang straight. When shaping the handle, I realised it would have been much easier to construct a hidden tang ‘wa’ handle and grind the bolster and tang to insert in.
This is my first time attempting a tapered octagonal handle on a kitchen knife, but I’ve experimented with plain octagonal handles on my hand saw and needle files.
KF post on the rescaling project: http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/835120/
Original Post: 18OCT08, Updated: 25OCT08
This is one smooth slicing serrated (well scalloped) edged knife, it’s the shape of its serrations that interacts with food presenting a round face instead of a pointed teeth as with regular serrations that slices and the ‘valley’ in between to aid the scallops engage into crusty products instead of biting and ripping away.
So if you’re slicing something like a Cordon Bleu, a regular serrated knife will leave ripples in the metal; the scallops will give a much cleaner cut… but a regular, sharp chefs knife should be able to cut through breadcrumb crust without unsticking it. The scallops help a lot for tough crust items like roast pork with thin crackling, the heavily reduced ripping effect will also reduce crumbing when slicing real bread and cake sponge.
I paid USD$54 + USD$7 postage for this knife via JCK, Everten Online is trying to selling them for AUD$100.
This knife is my work serrated knife, I’ll get a second one for home use and add a leather washer handle to it.
Original post: 20OCT08
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